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vnivei^sity: 



A Visit to Stanford University 



A VISIT TO STANFORD 
UNIVERSITY 



COPYRIGHT, 1905 
BY 

Mary Stewart Quelle 



UNIVERSITY PRESS 

STANFORD UNIVERSITY 

CALIFORNIA 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
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MAY 15 iy05 

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Red roofs glowing in the sun, 

Chapel chimes resounding, 
Wide walls builded into one, 

Arched arcades surrounding. 

HERE we are at Palo Alto, and within a few 
hundred yards of the entrance to the Uni- 
versity grounds. You can see the arches 
of the great stone gateway and one of the towers 
with its red-tiled roof from the station. 

Now for a carriage, — for the Quadrangle is a 
good mile from the gate, and there is much 
ground to be gone over during the day. 

We will drive first to the Mausoleum, then go 
on to the Museum, and so work around to the 
Quadrangle. 

That is the Memorial Arch at the end of the 
avenue, with the top of the clock-tower above it. 

Most of the trees on the low hills beyond are 
live oaks, though there is quite a sprinkling of 
white oaks, too. Black Mountain, that dark blue 
shoulder to the left, is covered with chaparral, 
and those tall trees on the long ridge over there 
to the right are redwoods. 

This grove on each side of the avenue is called 

5 



the Arboretum. Senator Stanford had hundreds 
of specimens from all over the world set out here. 
The two varieties of palm, planted alternately 
and lining the avenue all the way from the gate 
to the oval, and round the oval to the Quad- 
rangle, are the Canary date-palm and the Colo- 
rado desert fan-palm. 

The stone structure we are approaching now 
is the Mausoleum, where Senator Stanford and 
Leland Stanford Jr. lie, and this marble canopy 
over the beautiful 
figure of the Angel 
of Grief was placed 
here close to the 
Mausoleum by 
Mrs. Stanford in 
memory of her 
brother Henry. 

There is some- 
thing strangely 
impressive about 
the Mausoleum, — 
the plain, granite 
tomb set in the 
green, standing all 
alone among the trees. It seems fitting that 
this should be the last resting place of the boy 
Leland, and of the man who founded this great 
University as a lasting memorial to that much- 
loved son. 




Leland Stanford Jr. was born at Sacramento, 
California, May 14, 1869, and died at Florence, 
Italy, in 1884, of Roman fever. He was a 
bright, affectionate and generous boy, wbo gave 
great promise intellectually. After bis untimely 




death, his parents, left childless and without an 
heir, generously directed the use of their vast 
wealth toward the advancement of young people 
throughout the country, by the founding of 
this University. The Deed of Foundation says : 
" Since the idea of founding an institution of 
this kind, for the benefit of mankind, came di- 
rectly and largely from our son and only child, 
Leland, and in the belief that if he had been 

8 



spared to advise as to the disposition of our 
estate he would have advised the devotion of a 
large portion thereof to this purpose, we will 
that for all 
timetocome 
the institu- 
tion here- 
by founded 
shall bear 
his name, 
and shall be 
known as 
the Leland 
Stan ford 
Junior Uni- 
versity." 

Senator 
Stanford 
was born at 
Watervliet, 
near Al- 
bany, N.Y., 
March 9, 
1824, ^^^ 
died at his 
home here 
in Califor- 
nia,June2i, 
1893. At 
twenty-two 




lie went to Albany to study law, and when lie 
got through there went West with his young 
wife and settled at Port Washington, Wisconsin. 
He worked hard for four years, and then had 
the seeming misfortune to be burned out, — lost 
his library and everything else he owned. That 
was in 1852, when the California fever was at 
its height. As he had three brothers already 
out here, he and Mrs. Stanford joined them. He 
did well, and in eight years was worth a quar- 
ter of a million. In i860 he was sent to Wash- 
ington as a delegate to the convention that nom- 
inated Lincoln ; and after the inauguration the 
President had a number of consultations with 
him concerning Pacific Coast affairs. 

After leaving Washington he and Mrs. Stan- 
ford visited Albany, intending to remain there if 
they liked it. They decided in favor of Califor- 
nia, however, and soon after their return Mr. 
Stanford was nominated for governor by the new 
Republican party. He was elected, as you know. 
It was during his term of of&ce as governor of 
California that he became interested in the project 
of a transcontinental railway. It was a stupen- 
dous undertaking, when one considers the almost 
insurmountable difiS.culties to be contended with. 
For twenty-five years he devoted himself to the 
interests of the road — the Central Pacific — labor- 
ing in its behalf with the energy and assiduity 
characteristic of the man. In the meantime 

10 



lie Had grown enormously wealthy. In 1885 
lie was elected to the United States Senate, and 
re-elected in 1891. 

Senator Stanford had large ideas, with ample 
means for carrying them out. He believed 
thoroughly in a liberal, practical education, and 
he wanted this to be a University which would be 
of real, practical value to young men and women 
who were working with a definite end in view. 
He wished also to foster original investigation, 
and above all to promote the spirit of freedom. 
And where could one find a more suitable setting 
for such a University than this wide Western 
country, where everything is big and broad and 
generous, and where "Freedom is in the air." 

Beyond the Mausoleum is the Cactus Garden, 





and this road through the trees to the left will 
take us to the Museum. 

Leland Stanford Jr. was only eleven years old 
when he began his European collection. His 
great ambition was to found a museum, and the 
building for this reason is named for him. His 
private collection is kept in a room at the back 
of the main building. The additions to the 
Museum, which are now being erected, enclose 
a large court at the back of the original building. 
The continuous length of these buildings is 
about six hundred and fifty feet. All the struc- 
tures are two stories high, and are built of brick 
faced with concrete. When finished this will 
be the largest private museum in the country. 

13 



Naturally Mrs. Stanford is deeply interested 
in its enrichment, and she is constantly making 
large and valuable additions to its collections. 

The main front of the building is very fine, 




with its broad steps, colossal columns, and beau- 
tiful bronze doors. 

The mosaics ornamenting the face of the 
Museum are a curiosity in themselves. Copies 
are first made of the original paintings by 
an artist, and these copies are divided into 
numbered sections. Then the glass from which 
all Venetian mosaics are made is ordered in the 
corresponding shades of color. The glass comes 
from the factory in the shape of little squares 
about a quarter of an inch thick. The workmen, 
who are artists as well as artizans, fit the small 
pieces of glass together, following the painting 

15 



section by section, and chipping tlie pieces with 
a Hammer over a wedge, when necessary, in order 
to make them fit perfectly. When each repro- 
duction is finished, all the little pieces of glass 
having been pasted face down upon strong paper, 
the sections, numbered to correspond to the plan 
of the 
paint- 
ing, are 
shipped 
to this 
country. 
When 
they are 
received 
here the 
part of 
the wall 
intended 
for the 
mosaic 
is cover- 
ed with 

cement, the sections are placed in position by the 
Venetian workmen, the paper peeled off, and the 
finished picture appears. 

This large building with the many ventilators 
on the roof is the Chemistry building. That on 
our left, as we turn, is Roble Hall, the girls' dor- 
mitory. Though a hundred girls can be accom- 

17 




modated at Roble, there are always a number of 
names on the waiting list. It is bright, home- 
like and well managed. The dining-room is in 




the same building, though under separate man- 
agement. " Roble " means white oak. 

The wooden structure behind and to the right 
of Roble is the Girls' Gymnasium. In the rear 

is the basket-ball 
field, and in front 
the tennis courts. 
There are two 
organizations in 
connection with 
women's athlet- 
ics : the Roble 
Gymnasium Club 
whose members 




are chosen from among the best women gym- 
nasts ; and the Women's Athletic Association, 
which any woman interested in athletics may join. 




Farther on, to the right of Roble Hall, is 
President Jordan's residence, called Xazmin 
House; ''Xazmin" is the Spanish for jasmine. 

Turning to the left we drive up this shady 
road, which brings us to the western entrance 
of the Quadrangle. 




In 1884 Senator and Mrs. Stanford determined 
to establish this University as a memorial to 
their son. A special act of the legislature was 
sought, and in November, 1885, the act of endow- 
ment, embodying the charter of the institution, 
and the gift of eighty thousand acres of land in 
the rich valleys of California, was made public. 
A board of twenty-four trustees was named, in 
whom the management of the institution was 
vested ; the number has since been changed to 
ten. By the terms of the charter Senator and 
Mrs. Stanford were, during their lives, to exer- 
cise all the powers and privileges of the trustees. 
In 1903, however, Mrs. Stanford, as surviving 
founder, turned the management of the Univer- 
sity over to the Board of Trustees ; they elected 
her president of the board. 

On May 14, 1887, the cornerstone of the 
Inner Quadrangle was laid, and on October i, 
1 89 1, the University was formally opened to 
students. 

Stanford University has an endowment of 
$30,000,000, making it the richest of all Ameri- 
can universities. By an amendment to the State 
Constitution, passed by popular vote in 1900, the 
University buildings and grounds were exempted 
from taxation. 

Tuition is free to all, but a registration fee of 
ten dollars a semester is charged all those from 
outside the State. 

20 



The President of the University, Dr. David 
Starr Jordan, a New Yorker by birth and a grad- 
uate of Cornell, was called to his present posi- 




tion in 1 89 1 from the University of Indiana, 
where he had occupied the presidency with dis- 
tinction since 1884. 

21 



A young man himself, the first faculty chosen 
by him was remarkable for the youthfulness of 
its members. The number was at first limited 
to fifteen ; but when the University opened with 
over five hundred students, it was increased to 
thirty. 

The architectural motif of the buildings of the 
Quadrangle is that of the Spanish missions — low 
buildings with wide colonnades surrounding an 
open court. The original plans were drawn by 
the famous American architect, H. H. Richard- 
son, of Boston. 

Leaving the carriage and crossing a small 
outer court, we pass through the west gate and 




enter the Inner Quadrangle. The floor of this 
spacious court, 586 feet in length by 246 feet 

22 



in width, was originally covered with, asphal- 
tum, but afterwards it was thought best to cover 
this with coarse gravel. 

In the early days of the institution, before the 
Inner Quadrangle was bisected by wide cement 




walks, and before the gravel was laid, bicycles 
were stacked two and three deep along the ar- 
cades, and students awheel and on foot scurried 
about to and from their class-rooms in all direc- 
tions, or sat hobnobbing on the low stone curb- 
ing of the big circular flower-beds, while others 
occupied chairs set under the tall shrubs inside. 
Though wheeling is no longer allowed within 
the Quadrangle, on occasion the church clock 
looks down on a transformed "Quad," as on the 
night of a football rally, when the men, lock- 
ing arms, dance the serpentine up and down the 

23 



wide, white walks; or when, after the celebration 
of the "Plug Ugly," the upper-classmen scuffle 
through the arcades, while the Seniors 
try to smash the Juniors' 
new ' plugs,' 







for the tall 

gray hat, often fantas- 
tically decorated, is the 
distinctive headgear of the Junior Class, 
as the sombrero is that of the Senior, at Stanford. 

On the night of the Promenade Concert, dur- 
ing Commencement Week, the scene is like one 

,r3 from fairyland. Many-colored Japanese 

'^ lanterns are strung along 

the arcades, 






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lights swing 
above the ^'"^"^ 
band-stand, pretty recep- 
tion-booths with plants^and bright hangings fill 
the corners of the arcades, and groups of people 
linger near the music or saunter around the court. 

25 



The Memorial Cliurcli, the architectural con- 
ception of which is a combination of the Moorish 
and the Romanesque, is cruciform in shape, and 
measures 190 feet in length, 156 feet in width, 
190 feet to the tip of the gilded cross, and 106 
feet to the fullest height of the dome : the seating 
capacity being seventeen hundred. The clock 




and chimes in the tower, — which strike the 
hour, the half-hour, and the quarter-hour, — are 
the duplicate of the Westminster chimes in the 
clock on the Houses of Parliament in London. 

That is more of the mosaic work covering 
the upper part of the front, representing the 
Sermon on the Mount, — it is a wonderful 
piece of work. The inscription chiseled in 

26 



the stone below reads : '' Memorial Cliurcli, 
Erected to the Glory of God and in Loving Mem- 
ory of my Husband, Leland Stanford." Neither 




time nor money has been spared in the beauti- 
fying of this magnificent memorial, the offering 
of a devout woman, a loving wife. 

27 



The ten bronze squares, set in the floor of the 
arcade before the church, the first marked '95, 
the last '04, are the "Class Plates." Each suc- 
ceeding Senior Class places one there, holding a 
little ceremony over it, on Class Day during 
Commencement Week. 

The soft texture of the buff sandstone, of 
which the church is built, makes possible the 




intricate and lacy carving surrounding windows, 
arches and columns, and which is so largely em- 
ployed in the interior decoration as well. 

Within, from the Moorish tiled floor to the 
groined oaken ceiling, the design and symmetry 
are perfect. The four wide Roman arches, meas- 
uring fifty-two feet across, resting on four great 

28 



pillars, support tlie beautiful dome. From these 
arclies spring a cove ceiling, ornamented with 
the figures of angels in mosaic ; above the cove 
ceiling is a gilded railing, and a circle of tAventy- 
four exquisitely colored windows. Above these 
again is the top of the dome, spangled with stars. 
Standing below, gaze up into the beauty, the 
richness of the whole ! 

Before us gleams the apse with its white mar- 
ble altar, and the three great allegorical ^^indows, 
with figures of the prophets, of heroic size, in 
mosaic above them, and marble statues of the 
twelve apostles, in gilded niches, below. 

The mosaic over the altar is a reproduction of 
the "Last Supper," the original of which, paint- 
ed by 
Cosimo 
Roselli 
in the 
fifteenth 
century, 
is in the 
Sistine 
Chapel, 
atRome. 
There is 
said to 

be no other copy of this work. Permission was 
given Mrs. Stanford to have the picture repro- 
duced in mosaic out of consideration for her 






30 




gifts to the Catholic 
church. 

That fine bas-re- 
lief on the altar is 
a copy of a paint- 
ing by Rubens — 
"The Entomb- 
ment." 

To the left, 
against the great 
east pillar of the 
chancel, stands the 
beautiful pulpit, of 
carved stone ; and 
on the opposite side is the lectern — the figure of 
an angel, in bronze. 
Covering the 
wall spaces of the 
nave, above and 
between the beau- 
tiful stained glass 
windows, are more 
mosaics, portray- 
ing most graphi- 
cally scenes from 
the OldTestament. 
Below the win- 
dows on the lower 
wall space all 
around the church texts are chiseled in the stone. 

31 




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The organ gallery is above the vestibule, and 
contains seats for a choir of one hundred and 
fifty. The great organ, which is said to have the 
finest front ever made, is divided, one half being 
on each side of the loft, with the three-manual 
console facing the choir. The keys have elec- 
trical connection with the pipes. There are forty- 
six stops, thirty miles of wire, and over three 
thousand pipes. 

The beautiful window which lights the organ- 
loft is the Memorial Rosette. The artist is said 
to have worked for more than six months on the 
design alone. 

The color scheme of the church interior is 
rarely beautiful — the sombre buff of the stone- 

34 




work, the dull tints of the many mosaics, throw- 
ing into strong relief the wonder fully'rich color- 
ing of the pictorial win- 
dows through which 
streams the golden sun- 
shine of California. 

Leaving the church 
we turn to the south. 
The Engineering De- 
partment occupies the 
building to our left, on 
the southeast corner oi 
the Outer Quadrangle ; 
and the Department of 
Geology and Mining, 
and the Art Depart- 




ment, the opposite corner. Of the row of build- 
ings at the back, on higher ground and separated 
from the Quadrangle by a retaining-wall, that 
long stone building at the extreme left is the 
Mechanical Engineering laboratory and engine- 
next that is the boiler-house, and the 



room 



University power-house ; beyond is the Machine 
shop ; and in the second row are the Woodwork- 
ing shop and Pattern shop in one building, the 
Blacksmith shop and Foundry in the other. 
Behind these is the old Art building; to the 
right are the bookstore and the drugstore ; and 
farther on, to the left, is the printing-office. 

The big chimney of the boiler-house, which is 
one hundred and twenty feet high, was quite a 
landmark before the church was built. 




This triple arch with pointed roof, opposite 
the church, is the main entrance to the Inner 
Quadrangle. Within the arcade are the official 




bulletin-boards, and here the voting for student 
body elections usually takes place. In the 
building to the left are the offices of the Presi- 
dent and the Registrar. Beyond is the large 
corner room used as chapel before the erection 
of the church. The walls of the chapel were 
hung with a number of beautiful copies of the 
old masters, but most of these are now in the 
Museum. 

The building to the right of the triple arch 
was used for the Library before the Outer Quad- 
rangle was built ; it is now occupied by the Law 
Department. 

39 



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The space between the triple arcli and the Me- 
morial Arch is the Memorial Court. The group 
of statuary in the center of the court represents 
the Senator and Mrs. Stanford and Leland Stan- 
ford Jr, Set into the outer wall of the arcade, 
on the left, is a tablet to the honor of those Stan- 

40 



ford students who fought in the Philippines. 
These are some fine specimens of ancient Jap- 
anese bronzes on the four stone pedestals at the 
corners of the court. 

The Memorial Arch, lOO feet in height by 86 
feet in width, is the largest of its kind in Amer- 
ica, and second only to the Arc de Triomph, in 
Paris, which is the largest in the world. St. 
Gaudens made the model for the frieze and fur- 
nished the description, and Rupert Schmid exe- 
cuted the design, which represents the Progress 
of Civilization in America. 

The female figure in the middle of the north 
side is Civilization; Providence is on the left; 
Columbus taking his mission from Providence 
tears the veil from America, standing between 
the tropics of Cancer and Capricorn; Pizarro 
and Cortez appear mounted, tearing down the 
idolatry of ancient America and preparing the 
way for Christianity. 

On the northwest corner of the Arch is the 
chief Aztec divinity, and on the west end Las 
Casas preaching Christianity to the Indians; 
Liberty protecting Religion, and the Pilgrims 
landing at Plymouth, and after them the figure 
of Wisdom. All this has treated of the discovery 
of the New World ; now we have to do with the 
United States. 

Washington and two generals on horseback 
head the march of the Thirteen States. This 

41 







I 



figure in the center of the frieze, on the south side, 
represents Columbia, or the United States. On 
her right is Abundance, pointing westward. This 
group represents Grazing — the god Pan, and 
Ceres with mowers and reapers. Mining, on this 

42 



corner, a cyclops ; Electricity, with the Leyden 
jar; Steam, with boiler and fire; the Sciences, 
Philosophy, Medicine and Mathematics ; and Mi- 
nerva, with a bear at her side, representing Cali- 
fornia. Round in front again, we have Titans 
holding up the Mountains. Here the Railroad 
is depicted, with Senator and Mrs. Stanford on 
horseback, and the genius of Engineering super- 
intending the work. 

These buildings on the right, as we face the 
Arch, are occupied by the Departments of Nat- 
ural Science — Zoology, Physiology, Botany and 
Physics. On the left are the Assembly Hall, 
Library, and History building. The Assembly 
Hall has a seating capacity of seventeen hundred. 




The Library building, the gift of Senator Stan- 
ford's brother, Thomas Welton Stanford, of Mel- 
bourne, Australia, and completed in 1900, was 
the initial building of the Outer Quadrangle. 



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It now contains nearly 90,000 volumes. Although 
comparatively new it is almost outgrown, and 
within a short time will be entirely inadequate. 
The quarters of the Law Library, in the Inner 
Quadrangle, are also cramped, and the present 
Library building will be used for this department 
when the new structure is finished. 

Work is progressing rapidly on the new Li- 
brary building to the right of the northern, or 
front, facade of the Outer Quadrangle. This 
building will be three stories high, with a deep 

46 




4 



spacious basement ; tlie front will be nearly 
three hundred and fifty feet long. It will be 
semi-fireproof. 

In the center will be a circular reading-room 
seventy-five feet in diameter ; at the rear will be 
the stack, semicircular in form, whose capacity 
will be about eight hundred and fifty thousand 
volumes. Elsewhere there will be accommoda- 
tion for one hundred and fifty thousand volumes, 
making the total capacity one million. There 
will also be rooms devoted solely to some of the 
more important collections, such as the Hopkins 
Railroad Library, the Thomas Welton Stanford 
Australian Library, the Hildebrand Collection, 
and others. 

In all the arrangements the best features of 
the different college and general libraries of the 
world will be combined, and it is hoped within a 
reasonable time to build up a library that will 
be the best of any college in the United States. 

The large building beyond is the men's new 
Gymnasium. It is three stories high, with an 
entrance faced by Corinthian columns. On the 
first floor are the bowling-alleys, and space for 
other games. The main hall is on the second 
floor, with a gallery all round for spectators. 
There are swimming-tanks, shower-baths, dress- 
ing-rooms, handball courts, fencing, boxing and 
wrestling rooms, a general assembly hall, and a 
ball-room. 

48 



With regard to athletics at Stanford, Dr. Jor- 
dan says: "So far as the University is con- 
cerned its attitude is to encourage athletic sports, 
— football, baseball, tennis, and the rest. . . . 
As a rule those men who have been athletes 
in college have never regretted the time the}^ 
have spent on it, if their training has been 
wisely carried on. A great many of the ablest 
men now in college work were college athletes. 




The men who, in the long run, accom- 
plish results are men whose bodies are healthy 
and well-trained, and may be relied upon to 
furnish the vital force for the mental machin- 
ery by which work is conducted. The pale stu- 
dent of former times is passing away, and the 
intellectual life of the future will be carried on 
by men who have bodies as well as brains. For 
now-a-days demand on the brain is so great that 
it must have the body behind it." 

50 



In the field beyond the new Gymnasinm is the 
Facnlty Club-house. It is not much of a build- 
ing, — merely a 
rustic cottage, in 
fact. The dia- 
mond and the 
tennis courts are 
close by. 

Just across the road, to the east of the Quad- 
rangle, is the Stanford Inn. After the discon- 
tinuance of the dining-room at Encina Hall it 
was necessary to provide an eating place for the 
large 
n u m- 
ber of 





this requirement, as well as to accommodate the 
general public. 

The collection of buildings to the southeast of 
the Outer Quadrangle are residences. Some of 
them are occupied by professors and their fami- 
lies ; quite a number are owned by fraternities ; 

51 






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and there are two large private boarding-liouses 
— Madrono Hall and Mariposa. 

The three streets are Alvarado row, Salva- 
tierra street, and Lasnen street — named for noted 
Spaniards. In the snmmer' time the Campus, 
with its trim lawns, white cement walks, and 
shade trees, lies like an oasis, cool and green, 
surrounded by sun-baked fields, backed by brown 
oak-crowned hills. 

That small concrete building with tiled roof, 
on Lasuen street, is the University Post-office, 






r 



and the open field between it and the printing- 
office is where the old ''Camp" nsed to stand. 
When the first University buildings were in 
course of construction two long, rough, one- 
story wooden structures, at right angles to each 
other, were run up to accommodate the workmen. 
When the work was over these were vacated by 
the men and were then taken possession of by a 
number of students who had small allowances, 
or who wanted to work their way through col- 
lege. There was always a student in charge of 
the place, who was responsible for the order, 
cleanliness, and so on, and the room-rent was 
paid to him. A Chinaman kept a restaurant, 
where good, plain meals could be had cheap; 
and there were eating clubs there, too, some- 
times. But a good many of the boys 'bached' 
— two in a room usually — and they managed 
the cooking between them. Some of the most 
prominent fellow^s in college were Camp men. 




It was an institution peculiar to Stanford Uni- 
versity, and it would, perhaps, have been possi- 
ble nowhere else. 

Student labor is one of the features of Stanford 
life. A number of the young men earn their board 
by waiting on table. Those who do not care to 
work for their board get twenty cents an hour for 
house-cleaning, or gardening; while good me- 
chanics of any sort are always in demand, and 
are well paid for their work. Some girls, too, 
work their way through, by doing housework, 
sewing, typewriting, or teaching. 

This wooden building half-way between the 
residences and Encina Hall is the men's gym- 




nasium ; and that high board fence beyond the 
tennis courts encloses the football oval. 

Encina Hall, the young men's dormitory — 

60 



^'Encina" means oak — will accommodate three 
hundred students. At first they were boarded 
in the building — there is a handsome dining- 
room on the first floor and a kitchen in the base- 
ment — but this plan did not prove a feasible one. 
At the present time the dining-room is used as a 
club-room. All the men in the Hall are entitled 
to belong to this club ; the dues pay for the mag- 
azines and an occasional entertainment. They 



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have stag dances here, too, sometimes, and foot- 
ball rallies. 

The Hall, which was one of the first buildings 
finished, was full when the University opened in 
the fall of 1 89 1. At that time the nearest post- 
ofiice was at Mayfield, and the mail for the Uni- 
versity was brought by private carrier from 
Menlo Park. There were only one or two houses 

62 



in Palo Alto, and only four trains a day, and 
they liad to be flagged ! It seemed like settling 
up a new country away off somewhere, a hun- 
dred miles from civilization. Yet those were 
happy days for everyone, with no thought of 
breakers ahead. 

Things went along all right for the first two 
years, and then the Senator died. That was the 
beginning of hard times for the institution. Sen- 
ator Stanford's estate was tied up in the courts; 
the University had no ready money of its own ; 
its endowments brought in nothing; and at that 
time, also, the country was in financial distress. 
Then Mrs. Stanford came to the rescue, and all 
through the dreary time of uncertainty when 
the Government suit was on, and afterwards up 
to the time the endowment was effected, kept the 
coffers filled from her own private purse. 

And now how royally has the University been 
endowed — thirty millions of dollars — the rich- 
est educational institution in the country. With 
youth and wealth, what a future lies before ! 

Prior to the establishment of the University a 
Frenchman named Peter Coutts owned fourteen 
hundred acres of this land, and Senator Stanford 
bought it of him for $114,000. When the Univer- 
sity opened, Mr. Coutt's residence — Escondite 
cottage — was occupied by Dr. Jordan. It was 
he who named it "Escondite," which means con- 
cealment. 

64 



Coutts put up a number of large stables, for 
lie kept a lot of very fine cattle — Ayrshire and 
Holstein. Several of tbem bave been pulled 
down, tbougb, lately. Here Senator Stanford 
bad tbe Running Farm for a wbile. That odd- 
looking two-story brick building was used as tbe 
Psychology laboratory before the completion of 
tbe Outer Quadrangle, — tbe Frenchman had 
used it for his library and as a school-room for 
his children. 

If the gate on the back road is open we can 
drive round by the lake — " Frenchman's Lake " 
as it is called. The Frenchman planted the 
pines and spruce trees along the crest of those 
low hills. He is said to have intended building 



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a house on tlie top of the last hill to the left. He 
ran a tunnel quite a way under the hill nearest 
the lake, besides others farther back in the hills ; 
and built a big, round brick tower, probably in- 
tended for a reservoir, a mile or so from here. 

Here is the lake, as usual nearly dry ! There 
was a lot of useless work done here, too. It must 
have taken time and money to build this solid 
stone wall around the three sides, as well as the 
artificial island opposite. That double row of 
poplars looks quite French, as does the quaint 
little bridge in the background. 

Peter Coutts is said to have been a fine look- 
ing man, with white hair, good features and dark 
eyes. He was an eccentric old fellow, but noth- 

67 



ing very definite is known about him. There is 
a story of his having been a refugee, living in 
this country under an assumed name, and of his 
having been taken back to France. 

That line of water between us and the hills on 
the opposite side of the Santa Clara Valley is San 
Francisco Bay. It does not reach quite as far as 
San Jose, but ends in marshes at a place called 
Alviso, four miles away. The gleaming white 
dome of the Lick Observatory can be seen crown- 
ing Mt. Hamilton across the valley to the right. 

This long white house on the hillside, just 
above the Campus, was built by Mr. G. B. Cook- 
sey, but it is now University property. 

Following the road along the foot of the hills, 
we come presently to Lagunita, which, like 





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Frenchman's Lake, contains water only during 
part of the year. It generally fills up early in 
the winter, and then the students commence 
systematic practice for the rowing events in the 
spring. That is the boat-house on the north 
bank. Some students are living there, and they 
call it 'Villa de Lagunita.' 

The large house on the hill above the lake is 
the private residence of Mr. Charles Lathrop, 
Mrs. Stanford's brother, who is treasurer of the 
Board of Trustees and business manager of the 
University. The view from there is very exten- 
sive. On a clear day the ferry-boats can be seen 




crossing the Bay between San Francisco and Oak- 
land. 

Driving on past the lake we reach the Stock 
Farm. This was the home of the great Elec- 




tioneer. His monument stands in the little 
enclosure where many of his illustrious descend- 
ants lie buried ; but his skeleton is set up in the 
Museum. Electioneer died in 1890. By 1892 
every trotting record in the world was held by 
his sons and daughters. Palo Alto, the Sena- 
tor's favorite, made the stallion trotting record 
to a high-wheeled sulky, of 2:08^. Waxana 
trotted a mile to a high-wheeled sulky in 2:08^, 
which has been a world's record never since 
broken. The Abbott trotted a mile in 2:03^; 
only one trotting horse in the world has ever 
beat that, Croesus, ' King of Trotters.' 

71 




^ 



Senator Stanford started the farm in '77 with 
the idea of establishing a long string of thorough- 
bred trotting horses. Beginning with only forty 




or fifty, in '93, the year the Senator died, there 
were thirteen hundred and fifty horses here and 
at the branch at Vina Ranch. The development 
was discontinued in '96, and no entries have been 
made in the races since '98. 

The Stock Farm is still one of the most attrac- 




tive spots about here — so pretty and peaceful, 
and everything in such perfect order. 

73 



A small, wHite, gable-roofed House facing tlie 
old track was brought around the Horn in the 
'50's. At that time there were no saw-mills in 
this part of the country. Afterwards a man by 
the name of Ed Gallagher established a couple 
of lumber camps over toward Searsville. There 
were plenty of big redwoods there and on the 




mountain sides in those days. Over a hundred 
men were employed ripping out lumber with 
whip-saws and hauling it down to Redwood City 
for shipment, by water, to San Francisco; and 
four men were kept busy all the time packing 
deer down the mountain for the two camps. 

Skirting the western end of the race track, and 
crossing the road beyond, we reach the field 
where stands part of the old adobe tavern, the 
'Doubling-up Station,' as it was called, because 

74 



they used to double-up the loads of lumber there : 
a single load would be brought from the hills to 
this point, where two hill-loads were put together 
and hauled to San Jose, twenty miles to the 
southeast. 

This road after crossing the field follows the 
steep winding banks of the San Francisquito 
Creek, and leads up to the beautifully kept 
grounds surrounding the Stanford residence. 
The house is set back among some fine old trees. 
It is not a modern building, — in fact is quite an 
old place, as it was built in '63 by a wealthy 
San Francisco business man, an Englishman 
named Gordon, who called the place 'Mayfield 





^-— ^ 



Grange,' and who laid out Eucalyptus avenue. 
He died in 1869, and Senator Stanford bought 
tHe place in the following year. The house has 
been altered considerably since. Gertrude Ath- 
erton has written a book called "The Daughter 
of the Vine" which deals with the tragic history 
of the Gordon family, and some of the scenes are 

laid there. 
Though an 
air of silence 
and sadness 
pervades the 
place, now 
and again the 
old house has 
opened wide 
its doors in 
warm welcome to the many adopted sons and 
daughters of the dearly-loved mistress, either 

76 





when generously bidden by ber, tbey bave 
danced on tbe lawn, or feasted indoors, or wben 
at otber times tbey bave gathered voluntarily to 
give ber, after some long absence, a bearty wel- 
come bome. 

77 



LofC. 



Having made a detour the road once more fol- 
lows tHe liigli bank of tlie creek and brings us 




presently to the private entrance gate on the 
county road between Menlo Park and Palo Alto. 
Directly before us, above the oaks, appears the 
top of the Palo Alto, the tall redwood from which 
the Stanford estate receives its name. Originally 
there were two trees growing very close together, 

78 



and exactly the same height; one was washed 
away, so a bulwark has been built around the 
bank to protect this one. These two trees were 
known to the Spaniards as the ' Palos Colorados,' 
or red trees. They towered far above the live 
oaks, which covered the valley, and on a clear day 
could be seen from San Jose, twenty miles to the 
south, or from Rincon Hill in San Francisco, 
thirty miles north. They narrowly escaped 
being cut down by the lumbermen more than 
once in those early days. 

Turning to the right and traveling for half a 
mile along the county road we reach the main 
gateway to the grounds through which we passed 
this morning. Another turn and we are at the 
station once more. 

Tree tops dark against the blue, 

Tiled towers o'ershading, 
While we wave adieu ! adieu ! 

All are fading, fading. 



Hn flDemor? of fiDre* Stanfor& 

Jane Lathrop Stanford was born August 25, 
1828, at Albany, N. Y., and died at Honolulu, 
Hawaii, February 28, 1905. 

In 1850 she married Leland Stanford, a young 
lawyer of Albany, and shortly after accompanied 
him to Port Washington, Wisconsin, where they 
made their home. 

Afterwards, in 1852, Leland Stanford went to 
California, and Mrs. Stanford followed in 1856, 
having made the journey by the Nicaragua route. 
Thereafter the greater part of her life was spent 
in this state, and here she elected eventually to 
end her days. 

When by the death of her husband in 1893 
Mrs. Stanford was left to bear alone cares and 
responsibilities which would have weighed heav- 
ily on a strong man, never for a moment did she 
flinch or falter. With a clear head, a steady 
hand, and a strong heart she guided the varying 
fortunes of the new-born University, and lived 
to see its future assured, its place in the fore- 
most ranks secure. 

After the news of her sudden death at Hono- 
lulu had reached California, flags on government 
and private buildings were placed at half-mast. 

83 



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A month of mourning was observed by tbe 
University, during wbich all student activities 
of a social nature ceased ; every day during tbis 
time messages of condolence and regret were re- 
ceived from all over tbe country — from all over 
the world, for all honored and revered the brave 
woman who had worked so courageously, so de- 
votedly, for the cause so near her heart. 

On Friday, March the 24th, 1905, the simply 
impressive funeral ceremony took place in the 
stately Memorial Church, where were gathered 
state officials. University officers, alumni and 
students, as well as representatives from the 
many charitable organizations Mrs. Stanford 
had befriended. After the services all followed 
the flower-covered bier on foot to the marble 
tomb beneath the oaks. 

And now, beside husband and son, in the 
beautiful Mausoleum, lies all that was mortal of 
Jane Lathrop Stanford, yet her staunch spirit 
lives among us still. 

"She was the mother of the University, the 
kindest of helpers, the truest of friends, the 
wisest, sanest and most generous of all who have 
given of their abundance to the cause of learn- 
ing. Her life has given the University a rich- 
ness of personality, a wealth of sweet remem- 
brance that shall not die away in all the 
centuries." 



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